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";s:4:"text";s:9232:"This technique speeds up the normal aging process and creates a pocketed color effect on the blade, similar to the effect you would expect from an acid wash. If straight 5% vinegar worked good for me I would never go to the hassle of reducing it. Etching acids can range from powerful hydrochloric or sulfuric acid to much weaker acids — even household vinegar, citrus fruit, or mustard can be used effectively. The technique comes from its name, as it involves running a knife blade through the dryer with small stones and a lubricant to create abrasions on the face of the blade. i also dont think boiling vinegar really effects % of acid...hot acid will etch faster though, which is probably the bennefit people see when they use boiling vinegar...just my opinion. I know I need to wash it and make sure there are no oils or residues on it before it goes into the etch. General etching procedure (YouTube videos are a great resource for directions) - Degrease blade with acetone. Remove handles from knife. Well, it worked! : BASICALLY, ETCH-O-MATIC and the Electro-Chemical Marking System has been Proven Over and Over again during our 36 Years in Business as the Best Way to Permanently Mark … This opens it up so that the water (in the vinegar) can rapidly oxidize (rust) it. Posted on April 14, 2020. Jan 13, 2013 - In this video I am etching a blade with hot vinegar. By Add your custom logo to your knives, guns, tools, and jewelry by etching or oxidizing the metal! You can use some 2000 grit sandpaper at this stage to very lightly sand it … It marks electrochemically and actually etches mark into surface. glad to hear it worked it out for you...can't wait to see the pictures...on some knives, that "rough" look you are talking about adds character to the blade, and it just looks "right". I’ve also experimented with various ratios of Prep-and-Etch, which contains Phosphoric Acid, and gotten a darker color but apple cider works remarkably well. I'm worried if all I do is neutralize the acid the knife may come out dull looking. The 1095 etched like crazy and the wrought only slightly. Vinegar is acetic acid (usually about 5%), diluted with water. Hours? Use something to keep the blade on its spine so the etch is even. Ferric Chloride isn't the best choice for all etching of steels. But if you do like I do and keep the vinegar in a tupperware like container, warm it for 2 or 3 min. This is a Fujiwara carbon knife on which I forced a patina using mustard and vinegar: Chemically spoken, a patina is caused by a redox reaction. The effect was good, but I'd rather have cleaner steel and more figure in the wrought. Attach a deep etch pad to your hand marker. Using new vinegar each time prevents the contaminants from entering the picture. I etched in Ferric Chloride and put it together. You could do a test on a scrap piece. Most of the etched wrought iron I see on the forums is no where close to it's full potential. I am etching the surface making it gray-ish as opposed to the shiny surface polished metal. http://chemicalland21.com/petrochemical/acetic%20acid.htm. I don't really want to mess with any coatings so I figure I'd acid etch it but a lot of the work I see is lighter shaded patterns in the blade. Vinegar is a pretty weak etch and it helps to use it hot. Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers, https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-has-a-zero-tolerance-policy-towards-threats-of-violence-extremism-be-warned.1769537/, (You must log in or sign up to reply here. 18 volt transformer, Etch/Mark switches between 120V direct current and 60Hz alternating current, but the knob allows you to control the electric flow, and lights brighten/dim with the change in intensity, allowing for precision etching/marking. It'll probably come off with a little more work. Rusting also belongs to this category just as etching, which involves strong acids. But that's fine, I wanted a subtle grain in the iron, and I didn't really care what the steel did. ), hunting, and fishing, obsessively searching the internet for all things related to making knives and swords, etc.. East Tennessee / foothills of the Smoky Mountains, the Gospel, my wife, blacksmithing, bladesmithing, primitive archery, and F&I War reenactment, Besides bladesmithing....camping, gardening, hunting and fishing, art and music, bicycles and human-powered machines, history, archaeology and anthropology, beer, northern Germany, Nienburg/Weser is the town. Do I do any kind of polishing afterwards, or do I just rinse it with baking soda water to neutralize the acid? I only etch to show hamon/differential hardening, and have very little experience with etching for p-welding. Don't worry if it takes a little longer. I probably could've let it go for a little longer, but I'm happy with the result anyway. Your results may vary, and it's possible I'm way off base.... in our german forum has been a long discussion and many posts on using a strong instant coffee mixture, even over night, it may be less stressing to the steel than vinegar, there should be posts on this method around here also, You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by Kenadian, May 6, 2016. Do I boil it to raise the acidity? I compared the finish to some carbon steel blades that had aged naturally, and the the pocket knife looked pretty authentic. use loose abrassives to clean the oxides... Mike, what do you mean by loose abrasives? The amount of time left in depends on how long it takes to give you the desired etch. The finish will be smoother, and more even. How do I prepare the vinegar? Plain white vinegar is what you want, but any vinegar will work. Many knife makers give a carbon steel blade a short FC etch to darken the blade. ive never used the stropping compound, so i cant say for sure, but yeah, you seem to be on the right track...i was talking about stuff more like this, http://leslieceramics.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Chemical-Price-List-2011.pdf, http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-media/aluminum-oxide-grit-comparison.htm. If it isn't stabilized it might work to apply clear nail polish to mask the wood, etch along the exposed steel tang, then remove the nail polish with acetone after the etch. I heated the vinegar first and the blade looked like an Alka-Seltzer as it worked. For stainless, Udderholm recommends sulfuric acid to etch damasteel. This metal etching kit allows for added customization options for knife making. Personally, I think I've been getting better looking etches after thinning my distilled vinegar about 20%. Well, as you can see the difference is quite contrasting. All I do is swab the blade with hot vinegar until it looks nasty, rinse it off in water and use pumice to get the nasty stuff off. I know I could get some hardcore acid from Radio Shack or something, but I really want to do this in a way that is period-authentic. If you’re using ferric acid, dilute it with distilled water until you have pretty close to a … And the second stage is to acid etch the blade using lemon or vinegar, hence the name 'hybrid polish'. Coffee is acidic, but only slightly. Dampen the deep etch pad. Consider having the 440-C bladed heat treated by Rob Riddley at Canadian Knife Maker Supply. He has lots of great knife making steel for sale. Physical rehab, blade forging, machining, woodworking, hiking, mountain biking, home brewing, coffee roasting and photography. Good morning all, I recently attempted my first Damascus blade etch with distilled white vinegar only. Myles Mulkey, When I don’t know something, I use a simple algorithm: ask. i personally het (not boil) my etchant...i usually use either white vin, apple cider vin, lemon juice, or more often than not a combination of the three...the "how long" part kinda depends on how the blade is reacting...Mr Finnigan is right about the oxides preventing further etching, but i go about that problem a little different...i etch many times in short duration...like 5 minutes or so depending...then i rinse in hot tap water, use a couple of sprits of windex to neutralize, rinse again, and use loose abrassives to clean the oxides...that part doesnt take very long sense i etch for short periods...ive never used steel wool, and i probably never will...but it seems to work for some makers, so if that is what you have access to, then try it out and see how it works for you...also, its probably important to note that when i am etching, it is to bring out a hamon, so i have to be carefull of scratching the soft steel, so steel wool kinda scares me a bit...im probably just paranoid, but the loose abrasives work for me, and are really cheap...just my opinion. In an earlier posting, I asked “why does coffee work for etching knife blades?” It’s all the rage and it does work. He does super work. I have used ferric and also nitric acid these two are alot faster depending on dillution rate. I was not under the impression that you could increase the acidity of vinegar by boiling. There are many variables here, such as the type of steel used, the type of acid applied, and the amount of time the blade is treated. 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